Khaplu Kingdom

A Balti Tibetan Kingdom

The Khaplu Kingdom (Balti: ཁ་པུ་ལུ།; Wylie: kha pu lu),[1] also known as the Yabgo Kingdom, was an independent kingdom ruled by the Yabgo dynasty.[2] It was located in the Baltistan region on the Tibetan plateau, being the second-largest Balti Kingdom after the Makpon Kingdom.[3] The Yabgo dynasty governed Khaplu for over 1000 years, from well before 1500 to 1972.[4] They held control over the trade route to Ladakh along the Shyok River, east of where it meets the Indus.[5] The Yabgo dynasty had strong political and family connections with the royal families of neighboring Ladakh and Makpon, thanks to intermarriages within the royal circles.[6]

The residency and the seat of power of the Yabgo Royal family, Khaplu Palace.

The rulers of the Yabgo dynasty are said to have come from Mongolian roots,[7] tracing their family line back to Beg Manthal around 800 AD. Originally from Yarkand, which is now part of Xinjiang, China, Beg Manthal conquered and separated the Khaplu area from the Tibetan Empire, establishing his rule.[8] Even under Dogra and Makpon rule,[9] the Yabgo dynasty's influence persisted nominally. The name 'Yabgo' is a title originating from Chinese Turkestan. The Balti Kings held the Tibetan title 'Cho' (Balti: ཇོ་བོ; Jo-Bo), signifying 'Lord' or 'Master.'[10]

History

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Tibetan Empire at its greatest extent.

Until the ninth century, Khaplu and the wider Baltistan region were part of the Tibetan Empire, practicing Tibetan Buddhism. As time passed, the influence of Buddhism declined, and many Baltis began to convert to Islam under the guidance of Sufi saints and preachers like Sayyid Ali Hamadani.[11]

The Yabgo dynasty's rule in Khaplu began around 800 CE when Beg Manthal, the 10th descendant of Prince Tung (founder of the Gaz dynasty), arrived from Yarkhand (now part of modern China) and conquered Khaplu.[8][12] The Yabgo surname, initially associated with the leader of the Gaz tribes in western Turkistan, became the family name of the Yabgo dynasty.[10]

The Yabgo dynasty originally established its capital at Talis village, later moved to Khaplu.[13] The Yabgo rulers of Khaplu, were patrons of art, poetry, and literature during their long reign in the region. They constructed numerous palaces, mosques, and forts, including the Khaplu Royal Palace, known locally as Yabgo Khar (ཡབ་གོ་མཁར།).[14] This palace served as the seat of power and residence for the Kings of Khaplu for over a century.[15]

 
The new fort of Khaplu, the seat of power was moved here after the Dogra invasion in 1840.

Built in 1840 by King Daulat Ali Khan, the Khaplu Palace is a prime example of royal architecture in Baltistan. The site was selected by rolling a large stone down from a nearby cliff, marking the spot where it stopped.[16] The palace is built traditional Balti/Tibetan styles with Central Asian and Mughal elements, replaced the old fort situated on the mountains.[17][18]

The old fort, with only a few remnants remaining, witnessed battles throughout its history. In the 1590s, Murad Khan of the Maqpon Dynasty captured the fort during the Conquest of Khaplu by strategically cutting off its water and supplies. Despite resistance, the fort surrendered after a three-month siege. It fell to invaders again in the 1660s and 1674.[19][20]

Even after being occupied by the Makpon and Dogra rulers, the Kings of Khaplu maintained nominal rule. In 1972, the state was abolished and joined Pakistan. The last King, Raja Fatah Ali Khan, saw the end of the Khaplu Kingdom. His royal descendants continue as heads of the family, residing in Khaplu.[15][21]

Yabgo dynasty
Preceded by
Tibetan Empire
Monarchy
800–1972 CE
Succeeded by
Pakistan

Khaplu-Ladakh Alliance

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Princess Ayum Khri Gyalmo (འ་ཡུམ་ཁྲི་རྒྱལ་མོ།), also known as ZiZi, of Khaplu married King Nima Namgyal of Ladakh. They agreed that Queen Zizi's son would be the next king of Ladakh. Following is the agreement mentioned in the Treaty of Wamle on pages 30 and 31, explaining the connection between Khaplu and Ladakh:[1]

p.30. རྒྱལ་མོ་ཟི་ཟི་ཡིས། ཁ་ཧཕུ་ལོ་ན་ཐོག་མར་གཉེན་སྡེབས་སྐབས ། བདག་གི་མེས་ཧ་ར་ཁན་དང་ ། ཞང་པོ་རྡབ་ལར་ཁན་གྱི《ས》*ཟི་ཟི་བིག་ལ་བཏང་ནས ། སྲས་བྱུང་ན ། སྡེང་མཁར་གནང་བའི་ཆད་སོ་བཟུང་བ་ཡིན་ཡང་ ། ཟ་ཟིའི་ཁ་དབང་ལ་མ་བཞག་ བས ། ད་ལྟ་ངེད་ལ་མེད་པ། ད་ཆ་ཟི་ཟི་ཁ་དབང་ཡིན་གསུང་ཆོ ། དེ་ཡང་ངེད་ལ་འཇག་དགོས་ཟེར །

p. 31. ལ་དྭགས་ཀྱི་མངའ་འོག་ཁ་ཧཔུ་ལོ་འདུ་ཚུལ་སྙན་པར་བརྗོད་པའི་སྒོ་ཙམ་ལས ། ཇོ་ཁག་དེ་ནི་དམག་ལྔ་སྟོང་གི་བདག་པོ་ རེ[ས]་སྐར་རྡོ་རེས་ལ་དྭགས་འདུད་པ་གཉེན་འབྲེལ་གང་ཟབ་ལ་ལྡོས་པ་ཞིག་ལས་ལ་དྭགས་པའི་མངའ་འོག་ ཏུ་གཏོགས་ཙམ་ལས ། བུ་ རིག་ཇོ་ཁག་བཞིན་ངེས་པར་འདུ་བར་ཡང་མིན །

Translation:

p. 30. Queen Zi-zi said: 'On the occasion when a friendly relationship was established at Kha-hphu-loo, and when my forefather Ha-da-khan (Haidar-Khān) and my uncle Rdab-lad-khan (Daulat-Khān) gave Zi-zi to wife [to the Ladakhi king], an agreement was made [as follows]: "If a boy should be born, Sten-mkhar will be given [to him]." As it was not put on Zi-zi's kha-dban (personal authority), it does not now belong to us. Now that it has been said that Zi-zi is kha-dban (become of age? authoritative ?), it must be placed at our [disposal].'

p. 31. To speak pleasantly about the fact that Kha-hphu-lo was brought under La-dvags, the chief of that principality (Khaplu), which owns 5,000 soldiers, had in turns to bow before Skar-rdo and before La-dvags, and out of regard to his near kinship (?) he was not to such a degree under the Ladakhis, as are the Pu-rig chiefs.

— Treaty of Wamle[1]

Society

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The Khaplu society are divided into different groups or social statuses. Following are some of them:[22][23]

  • Kacho: This includes the royal family and the descendants of the Yabgo dynasty. Today, they are around 4% of the total Khaplu population.
  • Mala Lama or Syeds: These belonged to the priestly class in charge of carrying out religious duties such as weddings, birth ceremonies and death ceremonies. Many were the descendants of Islamic preachers, mainly from Mir Shamsudddin's line. They make up 6 to 8 percent of Khaplu's people.
  • Facho: These are the descendants of royal servants who took care of royal babies and served the Royal family. They make up about 8% of Khaplu's total population.
  • Sagyadpa: Sagyadpa were the farmers, craftsmen, and traders. They were known for their education and hard work, and many hold important positions in government.
  • Monpa: Monpas were blacksmiths and musicians. They used to sing and dance in royal court, weddings, and rituals to make a living. Many worked as Blacksmiths too.

The rest of the people are civilians and subjects of the Kingdom of Khaplu.

Religion

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Courtyard of the Chaqchan Khanqah (དཆག་ཆང་གོན་མ།), a typical Noorbakshia mosque in Baltistan.

Before Islam and Buddhism, Baltistan was influenced by the Zhangzhung. In 686, under Songtsen Gampo's control, Baltistan and Khaplu embraced Tibetan Buddhism, with the Bon and animist beliefs gradually fading. Gompas (religious structures) and stupas were built, and lamas played a significant role in Balti life.[7]

Islam, introduced by Sufi missionaries like Sayyid Ali Hamadani, gained ground. Noorbakhshism was introduced in Baltistan, converting Buddhists in Khaplu and Shigar valleys. By the 17th century, most Baltis converted to Islam, with some embracing Shia and Sunni branches. Khaplu, however, remained a stronghold of Noorbakshia.[24] Nowadays 80% of Khaplu follows Noorbakhshism and the rest 20% follow Shia and Sunni Islam.[22]

Religious gatherings in Sufi Khanqahs also known as Gonmas (spiritual centers) are crucial for Baltis, promoting spiritual purity through training. Mosques in Khaplu, reflecting traditional Balti/Tibetan architecture, resemble Tibetan monasteries.[7][11] In 1906, Miss Duncan in her book Summer Ride wrote that the great Tamasha trumpets, like those of the Lamaist mystery plays, were used at Khaplu.[1]

List of Rulers

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Yabgo King Sher Ali Khan in 1906.

The Khaplu Kingdom was ruled by the Yabgo Dynasty or the House of Yabgo. Following is the list of rulers of Yabgo dynasty, given by Alexander Cunningham:[1]

Ruler Name
1 Sultan Sikandar
2 Sultan Ibrahim
3 Sultan Ishak
4 Abdul Ralimad
5 Mir Barahir
6 Arman Samahir
7 Beshrab Nam
8 Tinlu Tung
9 Sultan Mahmud
10 Mehndi Ghazali
11 Mehndi Ibrahim
12 Mehndi Malik Haider Shah
13 Sultan Malik Ghazāli
14 Sultan Malik Shah
15 Sultan Juned Shah
16 Sultan Haider Shah
17 Sultan Haider Karar
18 Sultan Shah Ibrahim
19 Sultan Johar Fani
20 Sultan Najm Malik
21 Sultan Malik Rustam
22 Sultan Mehndi Mir
23 Sultan Malik Mir
24 Sultan Malik Jahar
25 Saad Ulla Khan
26 Saad Karun Beg
27 Saad Jalil Khan
28 Saad Rustam Beg
29 Saad Atta Ulla Khan
30 Saad Khalil Khan
31 Saad Yakub Khan
32 Saad Mir Ghazi
33 Saad Malik Purnur
34 Saad Babür Malik
35 King Mokhim Khan
36 Saad Shah Azim Beg
37 Saad Gohar Beg
38 Saad Malik Shah Shujā
39 Sultan Yagu
40 Sultan Yagu Latif Beg
41 Sultan Yagu Sher Ghazi
42 Sultan Jagu Ahmed Ghazi
43 Sultan Nour Ghazi
44 Sultan Alemgir Ghazi
45 Sultan Biwan-Cho
46 Sultan Hil Ghazi
47 Sultan Sher Ghazi
48 Sultan Beg Mantar
49 Sultan Torab Khan
50 Sultan Salmunde
51 Sultan Brol De
52 Sultan Malik Baz
53 Sultan Arzona
54 Sultan Tikam
55 Sultan Bikam
56 Sultan Kurkor
57 Sultan Bairam
58 Sultan Mir Khan, c. 1570-1600 A.D.
59 Sultan Ibrahim, c. 1600-1630.
60 Sultan Ghazi Mir Cho, c. 1630-1660.
61 Sultan Hussein Khan, c. 1660-1690.
62 Sultan Rahim Khan, c. 1690-1720.
63 Sultan Haim Khan, c. 1720-1750.
64 Sultan Daolut Khan, c. 1750-1780.
65 Sultan Mahmud Ali Khan, c. 1780-1810.
66 Sultan Yahia Khan, c. 1810-1840.
67 Sultan Daolut Ali Khan
68 Md. Ali Khan
69 Fatah Ali Khan
70 Zakria Ali Khan
71 Nasir Ali Khan (current)
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References

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  1. 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 Francke, August Hermann (1992). Antiquities of Indian Tibet. Asian Educational Services. ISBN 978-81-206-0769-9.
  2. Weekes, Richard V. (1984). Muslim Peoples: Acehnese. Greenwood Press. ISBN 978-0-313-24639-5.
  3. Jajja, Sumaira (2014-07-27). "Khaplu — off the beaten path". DAWN.COM. Retrieved 2023-12-03.
  4. Bisht, Narendra S.; Bankoti, T. S. (2004). Encyclopaedia of the South-east Asian Ethnography: A-L. Global Vision. ISBN 978-81-87746-97-3.
  5. Yusaf Abadi, "Baltistan Per Ek Nazar" 1984
  6. Jane E. Duncan (1906). A Summer Ride Through Western Tibet. University of California. Smith, Elder & co.
  7. 7.0 7.1 7.2 Afridi, Banat Gul (1988). Baltistan in History. Emjay Books International.
  8. 8.0 8.1 "yagbo dynasty – VIRASAT – E – HIND FOUNDATION". VIRASAT - E - HIND FOUNDATION. 2017-10-12. Retrieved 2023-12-03.
  9. "The kingdom in the high mountains | Footloose | thenews.com.pk". www.thenews.com.pk. Retrieved 2023-12-03.
  10. 10.0 10.1 Akasoy, Anna; Burnett, Charles S. F.; Yoeli-Tlalim, Ronit (2011). Islam and Tibet: Interactions Along the Musk Routes. Ashgate Publishing, Ltd. ISBN 978-0-7546-6956-2.
  11. 11.0 11.1 Bashir, Shahzad (2003). Messianic Hopes and Mystical Visions: The Nūrbakhshīya Between Medieval and Modern Islam. Univ of South Carolina Press. ISBN 978-1-57003-495-4.
  12. Beckwith, Christopher I. (1993-03-28). The Tibetan Empire in Central Asia: A History of the Struggle for Great Power Among Tibetans, Turks, Arabs, and Chinese During the Early Middle Ages. Princeton University Press. ISBN 978-0-691-02469-1.
  13. Afridi, Banat Gul (1988). Baltistan in History. Emjay Books International.
  14. Shah, Danial (2013). "Luxury with Heritage" (PDF). Xpoze Epoch Creatives. Archived from the original (PDF) on 2013-10-15. Retrieved 2023-12-03.
  15. 15.0 15.1 Pakistan: A Travel Survival Kit. Lonely Planet Publications. 1993. ISBN 978-0-86442-167-8.
  16. "Khaplu Palace, Royal Residence of Baltistan". CHRISTOPHER WILTON-STEER. Retrieved 2023-12-03.
  17. "Resurrecting an old Raja's palace". The Express Tribune. 2013-07-28. Retrieved 2023-12-03.
  18. Newspaper, From the (2012-12-11). "Khaplu Palace wins international award". DAWN.COM. Retrieved 2023-12-03.
  19. "Hatam Khan". www.tibet-encyclopaedia.de. Retrieved 2023-12-03.
  20. "Burgen in Baltistan". www.tibet-encyclopaedia.de. Retrieved 2023-12-03.
  21. Cox, Kathleen (1990). The Himalayan countries. Fodor's travel guides (1. ed.). New York: Fodor's Travel Publ. ISBN 978-0-679-01720-2.
  22. 22.0 22.1 Nahida Ali, Dr. Arif Mahmud (2023). "A Descriptive Study Of The Culture And Environment Of Khaplu, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan". Journal of Positive Psychology and Wellbeing. 7: 763.
  23. City, Skardu (2020-08-09). "Balti people: The cultural aspect and class system". Skardu City. Retrieved 2023-12-05.
  24. Rieck, Andreas (1995). "The Nurbakhshis of Baltistan: Crisis and Revival of a Five Centuries Old Community". Die Welt des Islams. 35 (2): 159–188. ISSN 0043-2539. JSTOR 1571229.